Tuesday, June 07, 2011

Samsung WB210


                                   Taken on the Samsung WB210 at 8x zoom

                                                                  Negative Filter

                                                                        Template

The Samsung WB210 is an amazing camera. When I first saw it I right away assumed I would not like it because it was a touch screen. I decided to have a look at it anyways and I am glad I did because this camera is probably one of my favourite point and shoot cameras that has been released in 2011. There are so many different features that the Samsung WB210 has to offer that makes the camera even more enjoyable to play with. It is a $299.99 camera, that consists of 12x optical zoom, 14 megapixels, and a large 3.5” LCD screen. The battery life is great ensuring that it will last through many shots on its Samsung BP85A lithium ion battery.

One feature I like that this camera offers is the smart filters. The smart filters consist of 12 different features that help to enhance and make taking photos that much more fun! Such options as the Negative filter, Sketch filter, Old Film filter, and Fish Eye filter are only a few of the many different effects this camera has to offer.

The Samsung WB210 I find reminds me a lot like the iPhone. The different camera settings are laid out on the screen in such a way that looks like the apps on the iPhone and which then allow you to scroll through the pages by sliding your finger across the screen. Another feature the camera offers that is similar to the iPhone is the “tap of the screen” to take a photo. By simply holding your finger down on the screen to focus, you can then snap a photo quick and easy.

Not only does this camera offer some really cool features like the iPhone, but it also offers SD video recording, HD video recording, special filters when recording a video, in camera photo templates, different in camera editing options and much more!

The only thing I do not like about this camera is that it takes a Micro SD memory card. The only reason I say this is because all the memory cards I have bought in the past are SD cards or CF cards so it would mean I would have to go buy a different card to store my photos on. Although some may consider this to be a downfall of the camera, it is also considered to be something unique that Samsung has to offer that no other camera company does. Some may not like the sounds of a different style memory card but I ensure you that Micro SD cards are very cheap, and reliable to buy. If you do not like the Micro SD cards for the size, most cards will come with an SD adaptor that you can plug your Micro SD card right into for uploading purposes.

All in all, the Samsung WB210 is a great camera and I would definitely recommend it if you are looking to upgrade your point and shoot for 2011.

Monday, June 06, 2011

Making an image with light

                                     Taken on the Nikon D5000


Painting with light is a very fun thing to experiment with. In order to do this task, you must have a DSLR camera. To get the greatest results, shut off all the lights in the room so it is completely dark. Next, grab a flash light or some sort of strong light source that is easy to move around. Once you have done both of these steps, turn your camera on and set it to a very, very slow shutter speed. When I paint with light I usually set my camera to about a 20-30 second exposure depending on what I want to achieve. When drawing something simple such as a shape, you can easily set your camera to a 5 second exposure. Once your exposure is selected, flash the light in front of the camera lens and start to draw.

In the picture above taken on a Nikon D5000, my settings were as followed:
S-13 seconds
A-F/22
ISO-600

I had my aperture set to a closed aperture so I could ensure a sharp end to end photograph. My ISO was set to 600 so I could let a bit more light in to make the picture stand out a bit more. Lastly, I set my shutter to a 13 second exposure so I could take my time drawing and to get the picture I had in mind.

It is very important that you keep in mind that since you are working with slow shutter speeds, you MUST put your camera on a tripod. If you do not use a tripod on these settings, your image will not turn out and rather look very blurry.

Saturday, June 04, 2011

Photoshop Techniques Pt:1



In this photo taken on the Nikon D5000, I decided to play around with some effects to help enhance and create a feeling when looking at this picture. The first thing I did was upload this image into Lightroom where I then enhanced the exposure a little bit. After I did that, I moved the picture into Photoshop where I desaturated the colour so you could only see a little bit of blue in the clothes and so that the rest would remain in black and white. For the third and final step, I added the water colour effect to give it a grainy look.

I did this to the photo to add a more artsy feel to it and so I could create something different from all my other photos. I found by doing these few quick steps it changed the original photo drastically making it look more desirable.

Sunday, April 17, 2011

Nikon VS Canon




After making a poll on my blog of which camera brand was most preferred, Nikon won with a total of 7-1 votes. I own both a Canon and a Nikon and I for sure have a preference over the two. To me, the main difference between a Canon and a Nikon is the menu systems. Just for my own entertainment though, I am going to go through the differences as to why I prefer one over the other.

Nikon

I believe that Nikon sets up their camera in a more simple, and user friendly way where everything is fast and easy to find what you are looking for. On their point and shoot cameras, every single camera that I have seen (and I have seen a good fair amount of Nikon point and shoot cameras as I work with them) All their menus are exactly the same. From a cheaper $100 camera to the more expensive $300 camera, they are the same. I find this to be a bonus for Nikon because for the customer who is not big into camera knowledge, once they learn how to use one of Nikon's cameras, they can upgrade and still no how to work the others. For their point and shoot cameras, they do have nice quality products but I do find once you use the flash in an indoor setting, the image appears very warm and sometimes almost ruined.

For Nikon DSLR cameras, they make a great product. There is not a single thing I can complain about on these cameras. A feature I like that Nikon offers is the Quick Guide setting on a couple cameras which basically allows you to access answers to questions you have or if you are unable to find a setting on the camera, this Quick Guide setting will do it for you. I like the quality of the Nikon cameras and that the body and lens itself does not have a cheap feel to it and that you are actually getting your moneys worth. All in all, Nikon DSLR's are a great buy.

Canon

Canon point and shoot cameras I find to be a lot different from the Nikon's. Most Canons menu systems are the same just like Nikon's but what is nice about Canon is that you can find a cheaper camera with a spin dial feature where you can not on a Nikon. Canon has great quality point and shoot cameras that are made with an excellent quality lens that is perfect for great indoor shots. There pictures have a slightly cool tone to their images which is the opposite of Nikon's warm tone but still produces a fantastic image.

Canon's DSLR cameras are a lot different from a Nikon. One major difference between the two are not only the menu systems but also the direction of the way a lens goes on the camera body. This is not a huge difference but coming from someone who owned a Canon first and then a Nikon DSLR, it takes a long time to get use to. Now the Canon DSLR is still a great camera. The one thing I do not like about Canon's is the feel of the camera in my own hands. When holding a Canon compared to a Nikon, the body itself of the camera feels more cheaper in product. Now even though I feel this way about the camera body, does not mean the camera brand does not take an excellent photo. After taking a picture on a Canon, the quality and clarity is outstanding.

All in all, both makes of camera brands are amazing. All though there is slight differences in menu systems, colour tones and quality, both company's make a strong, durable, & reliable camera that I would highly recommend to anyone.

Monday, March 21, 2011

Aperture/Depth of Field

 
Image taken on Nikon D5000. Shallow depth of field to blur the background


Image taken on Nikon D5000. More depth of field to ensure a sharp, end to end image

 
Aperture priority is one of the settings on a camera that usually stands for “AV” or “A” on your spin dial. Aperture priority and depth of field goes hand in hand and is at first, a hard concept to grasp. Basically, you have the more common apertures of F2.8, F5.6, F8, F11, F16, and F22. In order to gain the more depth of field you want to be set at F22 to give you the most sharp picture from end to end. In order to achieve a shallow depth of field, you want your setting to be set to F2.8.

The best time to use a shallow depth of field would be when you want your background to be out of focus. A perfect example of this is when you are taking pictures of a flower. Using your focal points in your viewfinder you want to set the main focus on the flower so your background is soft and out of focus making the flower the sharpest in the image. A good setting that I enjoy taking my flower pictures at is F2.8 or F5.6 so I can ensure the background is completely out of focus and making sure the flower is the sharpest. Another example of when you want a shallow depth of field is when you are taking portraits. If you have your subject in a very busy background such as in a school setting, you want to blur out the background behind the subject so the background does not take away from your portrait. A great setting for this would be F5.6.

A time where you would want to use a great depth of field ensuring your entire image is in focus is in landscapes and product photography. The reason you want a sharp image for these two types of photography is because for landscapes you do not want to show any blur to the image because generally speaking, if clients are going to purchase your image, they want a sharp end to end photograph of the landscape. The reason you want a sharp product shot is because if an advertising agency is going to hire you, they do not want their product to be out of focus because they are trying to promote their product through captivating images that a photographer can produce. For both Product and Landscape photography I like to make sure my F stops are set to either F16 or F22 to ensure that the end result is sharp.


Sunday, March 20, 2011

In Focus


Nikon D5000 viewfinder and auto focus points
Photo taken from Google Images


So as simple of a subject as this may be, it still needs to be touched on before I eventually start talking about manual functions. Basically, when taking a photograph you want a picture as sharp as possible. There is a button, or shutter release, on the camera that you push down in order to take your photograph. Before releasing the shutter you want to gently push the button half way down to ensure an in focus photograph. Basically if are not doing this, you are risking the chances of having an out of focus picture as an end result.

Auto Focus is a great feature. On your lens, there should be a switch that says “A” and “M” standing for auto focus, and manual focus. In order to use your camera on auto focus you must have the switch turned to “A”. When looking through the viewfinder on auto focus, you will notice little red squares that are known as focus points that help to focus on a certain part of the subject. After you have selected how you want to arrange the subject in the viewfinder, push the shutter button half way down to allow auto focus to occur, followed by pushing the shutter fully down. Probably about 90% of the time a photographer should be able to use the auto focus without worry of capturing the image.

Your other focus technique would be manual focus or “M” on the lens. Manual focus can be a great feature as well if you no how to properly use it. One reason its great is for when your auto focus will not pick up on the subject such as if it were to dark. Manual focus is basically controlled by using the end of the lens to adjust left and right or its sharp and soft focus. A good time you may find yourself using manual focus is when on a windy day and your auto focus will not stabilize long enough on a flower that may be shifting back and fourth in the wind.

Saturday, March 19, 2011

Using histograms to produce good exposures

Photo taken from Google Images


A histogram on a camera is an important feature that every photographer should use. Exposure is the key to a successful photograph. You need a properly exposed image in order to produce good quality work. I, as a photographer prefer to get my exposures right in the camera so I can limit the time and effort that others like to put into Photoshop later.

By using your histogram you are able to determine if you are using the proper settings or not. If you are going to review your image on your camera after shooting something, its best to set your camera so your histogram pops up beside the picture so you can tell if you are going to produce a usable image once its loaded onto the computer. The reasoning for wanting to display your histogram is because the image you see on the back of your camera is not always accurate. It is possible that you could also have your LCD settings set to the wrong settings and therefore could be showing you the wrong results when you look at your image. A great example of shooting something and receiving inaccurate information on your camera LCD screen is when you shoot snow or something white. After shooting the white image, you look at your camera screen and it looks like it was exposed the right way. But when you find yourself uploading the images to view on your computer you may all of a sudden notice that your images are well over exposed. Now an overexposed image is defined as highlights being completely blown out. An example of where you may see this is when shooting a bride at her wedding. The brides white dress will be completely blown out, or very bright and unflattering looking. The best way to avoid overexposing a subject is by making sure you have the proper camera settings for the scene or subject matter you are photographing.

When looking at a histogram there's 3 things you can look at; under exposure, normal exposure, and over exposure. When your histogram is showing the information in the middle, that means you have exposed the image properly. When the information is more to the left, it means there's not enough detail and you have underexposed. Lastly, when the slope is to the right of the histogram, it means you have to much detail and is therefore going to look overexposed. It's better to underexpose then over expose because you can always brighten an underexposed picture but you cant always darken an overexposed picture.